Ha Giang vs Northwest Vietnam: An Honest Motorbike Travel Guide
Contents
If you’ve been researching motorbiking in Vietnam, chances are you’ve heard of the Ha Giang Loop. It has exploded in popularity since the post-Covid travel boom and is often seen as the ultimate Vietnam motorbike adventure. But is Ha Giang really the best? In this guide, I’ll break down the different regions of the North, share my honest experiences, and explain why I actually prefer the Northwest of Vietnam over Ha Giang.
The Regions of Northern Vietnam
Northern Vietnam can be loosely split into four areas:
- Ha Giang – The famous motorbike loop, known for its dramatic mountains and winding roads.
- The Northeast – Home to Ban Gioc Waterfall, Ba Be Lake, and a more relaxed style of travel.
- The Northwest – Includes Sapa, Mu Cang Chai, Tram Tau, Ta Xua, and Y Ty. Stunning rice terraces and authentic local life.
- The North-Southwest – Think Mai Chau, Pu Luong, and Ninh Binh. A mix of rice paddies, homestays, and accessible beauty.
Each region can take 5–7 days of driving to explore properly. Most travelers just focus on Ha Giang, but if you’ve got time, combining regions can create an incredible experience.
First Impressions of Ha Giang
Let’s be clear: Ha Giang is beautiful. It offers once-in-a-lifetime mountain views, and for many riders, it’s their first taste of Vietnam’s wild north. The landscapes are dramatic, and the loop can be done in 2–4 days.
But here’s the catch:
- The loop is actually small. Experienced riders can technically complete it in a single long day.
- The area is crowded — thousands of backpackers, easy rider tours, and coffee shops at every viewpoint.
- The police presence is unique to Ha Giang. Fines of around 3 million VND are common for those without proper licenses and IDPs. Think of it as an unofficial entry fee.
For many young travelers, Ha Giang is the highlight of their trip. But for hardened motorbike adventurers, it can feel too touristy and restrictive.
The Northeast: A Casual Alternative
The Northeast is a gentler ride. The landscapes aren’t as extreme as Ha Giang, but you’ll find waterfalls, caves, and plenty of authentic local life. Highlights include:
- Ban Gioc Waterfall – One of Vietnam’s most spectacular waterfalls.
- Ba Be Lake
- The Cave to drive through
This region feels more relaxed, and it’s a great option if you’re looking for a slower pace.
The Northwest: My Favorite Region
Now for the good stuff: The Northwest of Vietnam. For me, this is the true motorbiking paradise.
Why It’s Special
- Rice Terraces & Farming Life – Unlike Ha Giang’s dramatic cliffs, the Northwest blends everyday Vietnamese farming life with jaw-dropping scenery.
- Hidden Gems – Ta Xua (with its dinosaur backbone ridge), Tram Tau (hot springs), Mu Cang Chai (epic rice terraces), and Y Ty (my pick for the most beautiful village in Vietnam).
- Adventure Factor – Roads here are rougher, with clay that turns into ice when wet. This makes the Northwest a playground for real riders.
Downsides
- Tough Riding – Big ADV bikes struggle here. A 150cc bike like the XR150 or WR155 is perfect.
- Unpredictable Weather – Ta Xua in particular is almost always rainy and foggy. But that mix of love and hate is what makes it memorable.
In my eyes, this is the real Vietnam. It’s challenging, authentic, and endlessly rewarding.
Practical Travel Tips
- Weather: October is the golden season when rice paddies glow yellow. Winter (Nov–Feb) can bring freezing temperatures and even snow. Spring is warmer but wetter.
- Flexibility: Northern weather is unpredictable. Don’t over-plan; sometimes you’ll get lucky, sometimes you won’t.
- Routes: Unlike the South–North highway where everyone ends up in the same towns, the North offers endless homestays. How far you go depends on your pace, the rain, and your riding skill.
Final Thoughts: Ha Giang vs Northwest Vietnam
Ha Giang has earned its fame, but it’s not the be-all and end-all of motorbiking in Vietnam. It’s crowded, policed, and small compared to the vast beauty of the Northwest. If you’re looking for a quick adventure with epic views, Ha Giang works. But if you want the raw, authentic, and challenging Vietnam experience, the Northwest wins every time.
